Even a piece of paper in a pinchQuote:
Soften that light a little bit and cut down on the sharp shadows.
EDIT - Now that I am reading what you wrote with a fresh brain, my reply didn't make much sense. I thought you said "Stofen that light a little bit...", to which I was replying that if you find yourself without any of the standard light modifiers (stofen, Gary Fong Lightsphere) a piece of paper or index card and a rubber band works as well. I should really read what people write before replying :)
Good call! Since it was the first time with the unit, I mostly shot with it on auto mode to be sure everything came out ok. I'll check the setting for the curtain because I would like to blur some on purpose but need to experiment and the championship game was not the place to do that. ;)
Yeah I have one that looks like tupperware and I used it on a lot of the shots. I wasn't quite sure when to use it so I tried it for most of the night since everyone said it was something you need. I kept the unit at 45 degrees as it says in the docs. I can't believe how it lit the entire bleachers on a couple of shots. I also like how it will light the subject but leave the background dark. Here is a good example of lighting the whole place up
Nikon Japan site, if you scroll almost all the way down the the bottom of the page, they have two images, one with a front curtain sync:
and with rear curtain sync:
And here are Canon's examples or the same thing (their flash page can be found here):
The one thing that is a little strange with the Canons is that both the camera and the flash have a setting for 2nd curtain sync, on the 5D it is custom function 15. On bodies that have a built in flash, that will control how the built in flash works. It will also control off camera flashes that are not "smart." The 580ex has a button to set the sync, the three triangles >>> is rear curtain, this will override what the camera custom function is set to.
I'm having some problems with the SB-800. When I set it up to shoot remotely with the D200 and the 50mm lens, I get great exposures when the camera is set to f/2.8, but the image ends up under exposed when I stop the lens down to f/8 so that all the subjects in my portrait will be in focus. The flash is saying that I'm -3 EV, but I can't figure out how to jack the power of the flash up to properly expose the image at that f-stop.
I've tried increase the EV on the camera to its max and that doesn't work.
Also what remotes you have, what's the configuration? You are having one remote SB-800 in slave mode, right? Is it ALWAYS like you described when shooting at f8? I mean it always ends up underexposed by that much, no matter what the light is and what the subject is? What happens when you point at something far away? Also is it the same if you use spot metering and matrix metering?
I've tried jacking the camera EV all the way up. The SB-800 still shows -3 EV. Metering mode doesn't make a bit of difference.
The ONLY way I've been able to get properly exposed images is if I jack the camera's ISO to 1200 or so. And then the picture quality is crapola for portraits.
Maybe I just need to get a second flash?
[ame="http://youtube.com/watch?v=laKnPbR6XgI"]YouTube - SB-Love[/ame]
Hmm, of course I don't have an SB800 to try this out, but you can change the flash exposure by hitting the sel button then the + or - buttons, then hitting sel again to set it, you should be able to get 3 stops out of it that way. Something else sounds fishy though as the flash should automatically change it's output as you change your aperture if the flash is using i-ttl. Is the flash in TTL, TTL BL, or...., and is it set as the master in the group?