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Thread: ***DSLR/Photography MegaThread***

  1. #351
    VF
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    Quote Originally Posted by rinkrat View Post
    So I took your advice and got the 580EXII and used it for the first time at the Derby Dolls chanpionship game. I was amazed at how much it evenly lit huge areas or even select parts of an area. Check out this page where they susd a few of the pics and look how well the flash lit things up.

    http://www.losanjealous.com/2007/12/...factory-12807/

    Thanks for the advice, I'm glad I got the right flash! In fact I used it for the Naked Raygun pics later in the night and it was perfect. The technology on these things has sure improved sinced back in the day.
    Yeah, its a big flash with lots of power, which is really really nice. Glad you like it! The pics look fantastic. There are some great captures there. The one comment I would make, and this is purely personal preference, but for action shots I might switch from front curtain sync (which is the default, the flash fires as soon as the shutter opens) to rear curtain sync (flash fires right before shutter closes). The only reason I would say that is that way you have motion blur leading up to the clear, frozen flashed image instead of a clear image with the blur following (if that horrible description makes any sense), you can see this clearly in the shot of the single red shirted skater's helmet and the shot of a couple of the ladies falling. Again, that is only personal preference, but I find that with action shots it feels a little better, as it feels like the subject is blurring into the image instead of blurring out, so it is more of a crescendo into the capture.
    Last edited by VF; December 12th, 2007 at 11:08 PM.

  2. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyBoeingJets View Post
    Mike, those are some kick ass action pics, man!
    concur!

    Soften that light a little bit and cut down on the sharp shadows.
    Even a piece of paper in a pinch

    EDIT - Now that I am reading what you wrote with a fresh brain, my reply didn't make much sense. I thought you said "Stofen that light a little bit...", to which I was replying that if you find yourself without any of the standard light modifiers (stofen, Gary Fong Lightsphere) a piece of paper or index card and a rubber band works as well. I should really read what people write before replying
    Last edited by VF; December 13th, 2007 at 07:40 AM.

  3. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by ValleyFan View Post
    Yeah, its a big flash with lots of power, which is really really nice. Glad you like it! The pics look fantastic. There are some great captures there. The one comment I would make, and this is purely personal preference, but for action shots I might switch from front curtain sync (which is the default, the flash fires as soon as the shutter opens) to rear curtain sync (flash fires right before shutter closes). The only reason I would say that is that way you have motion blur leading up to the clear, frozen flashed image instead of a clear image with the blur following (if that horrible description makes any sense), you can see this clearly in the shot of the single red shirted skater's helmet and the shot of a couple of the ladies falling. Again, that is only personal preference, but I find that with action shots it feels a little better, as it feels like the subject is blurring into the image instead of blurring out, so it is more of a crescendo into the capture.

    Maybe if you could find some examples, that would be awesome.

  4. #354
    Go, Kings, Go rinkrat's Avatar




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    Quote Originally Posted by ValleyFan View Post
    Yeah, its a big flash with lots of power, which is really really nice. Glad you like it! The pics look fantastic. There are some great captures there. The one comment I would make, and this is purely personal preference, but for action shots I might switch from front curtain sync (which is the default, the flash fires as soon as the shutter opens) to rear curtain sync (flash fires right before shutter closes). The only reason I would say that is that way you have motion blur leading up to the clear, frozen flashed image instead of a clear image with the blur following (if that horrible description makes any sense), you can see this clearly in the shot of the single red shirted skater's helmet and the shot of a couple of the ladies falling. Again, that is only personal preference, but I find that with action shots it feels a little better, as it feels like the subject is blurring into the image instead of blurring out, so it is more of a crescendo into the capture.


    Good call! Since it was the first time with the unit, I mostly shot with it on auto mode to be sure everything came out ok. I'll check the setting for the curtain because I would like to blur some on purpose but need to experiment and the championship game was not the place to do that.

  5. #355
    Go, Kings, Go rinkrat's Avatar




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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyBoeingJets View Post
    Mike, those are some kick ass action pics, man!

    Did you use a diffuser of any kind? If not, that'd be the only thing I could suggest that might make them look even better. Soften that light a little bit and cut down on the sharp shadows.

    I lost the one that came with my SB800. I need to order a new one.


    Yeah I have one that looks like tupperware and I used it on a lot of the shots. I wasn't quite sure when to use it so I tried it for most of the night since everyone said it was something you need. I kept the unit at 45 degrees as it says in the docs. I can't believe how it lit the entire bleachers on a couple of shots. I also like how it will light the subject but leave the background dark. Here is a good example of lighting the whole place up


  6. #356
    VF
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unfiltered View Post
    Maybe if you could find some examples, that would be awesome.
    A very dry, but clear example can be found at on the Nikon Japan site, if you scroll almost all the way down the the bottom of the page, they have two images, one with a front curtain sync:



    and with rear curtain sync:



    And here are Canon's examples or the same thing (their flash page can be found here):




    The one thing that is a little strange with the Canons is that both the camera and the flash have a setting for 2nd curtain sync, on the 5D it is custom function 15. On bodies that have a built in flash, that will control how the built in flash works. It will also control off camera flashes that are not "smart." The 580ex has a button to set the sync, the three triangles >>> is rear curtain, this will override what the camera custom function is set to.
    Last edited by VF; December 13th, 2007 at 08:37 AM.

  7. #357
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    I'm having some problems with the SB-800. When I set it up to shoot remotely with the D200 and the 50mm lens, I get great exposures when the camera is set to f/2.8, but the image ends up under exposed when I stop the lens down to f/8 so that all the subjects in my portrait will be in focus. The flash is saying that I'm -3 EV, but I can't figure out how to jack the power of the flash up to properly expose the image at that f-stop.

    I've tried increase the EV on the camera to its max and that doesn't work.

    Any ideas??
    Last edited by FBJ; December 14th, 2007 at 09:16 PM.
    Anything worth shooting is worth shooting twice. Bullets are cheap. Life is priceless.


  8. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyBoeingJets View Post
    I've tried increase the EV on the camera to its max (+1) and that doesn't work.
    Was it at least better?

    Also what remotes you have, what's the configuration? You are having one remote SB-800 in slave mode, right? Is it ALWAYS like you described when shooting at f8? I mean it always ends up underexposed by that much, no matter what the light is and what the subject is? What happens when you point at something far away? Also is it the same if you use spot metering and matrix metering?

  9. #359
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    I've tried jacking the camera EV all the way up. The SB-800 still shows -3 EV. Metering mode doesn't make a bit of difference.

    The ONLY way I've been able to get properly exposed images is if I jack the camera's ISO to 1200 or so. And then the picture quality is crapola for portraits.

    Maybe I just need to get a second flash?

    [ame="http://youtube.com/watch?v=laKnPbR6XgI"]YouTube - SB-Love[/ame]
    Anything worth shooting is worth shooting twice. Bullets are cheap. Life is priceless.


  10. #360
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    Hmm, of course I don't have an SB800 to try this out, but you can change the flash exposure by hitting the sel button then the + or - buttons, then hitting sel again to set it, you should be able to get 3 stops out of it that way. Something else sounds fishy though as the flash should automatically change it's output as you change your aperture if the flash is using i-ttl. Is the flash in TTL, TTL BL, or...., and is it set as the master in the group?

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