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Thread: ***DSLR/Photography MegaThread***

  1. #2371


    Quote Originally Posted by rinkrat View Post
    OK, so I configured it to shoot raw to the CF card and JPG to the Eye-fi card. When I review my pics it looks at the wi-fi card and then when I "protect" one it sends it to my iPhone where I can mess with it or send it further!


    Meanwhile Canon announced the Elph 320 point-and-shoot that has built in wifi.
    Stoked it works so well, I had literally just heard about it a few days before posting. I'm working on a set up for shooting tethered onto a tablet in the studio or possibly wi-Fi to the tablet/their iPhone/iPad when I'm working with clients.

  2. #2372


    For some reason the iphone stopped seeing it and I spent an hour trying to get it back. Finally got fed up and switched to the droid and it seems way more responsive Here are a couple of shots I took while walking the dog and uploaded to my phone then to Facebook. Look ma, no computer!!

    This one I added the color effect right in the iPhone

    "Vivid" setting

  3. #2373


    friend of mine made an "old school" preset for lightroom. i use it on most of the pics that i decide to keep in color.

  4. #2374

  5. #2375


    Alright, here is one for you photo detectives. This was posted on Hammond's blog, looking at the FxIF on it, its flash at 1/500th on a 1D mk IV, which has a max sync speed of 1/300th. As some of you (RR) are now in the stadiums, I was wondering if you knew if some arenas are now using hi speed sync flashes (multiple flashes for the duration of the shutter), or is it a really, really slow flash that burns for the whole shutter action? Or something else going on?

    For those unclear about max sync speeds, with slower shutter speeds what happens is the front curtain of the shutter opens fully, the flash is fired, then the rear curtain falls. With higher shutter speeds (above 1/300th in the case of the 1d mk IV) the front curtains starts to fall, then before it reaches the bottom, the rear curtain starts to fall, so you get a slit traversing the frame. If you try and use a flash when beyond the max sync speed, only the slit between the two curtains will be exposed (either the very top or very bottom of the frame depending if you are using front or rear curtain sync) because flash duration is usually very fast (studio flashes are somewhere in the range of 1/6000s for t.5, 1/2000 for t.1), and will extinguish well before the slit has time to traverse the whole frame.

    Thoughts? You used to see this every so often, but it was always with a CCD camera that had an electronic shutter (original 1D). No idea how he is doing it with a mechanical shutter.

  6. #2376


    Probably Hypersync Pocketwizards

    or a longer duration flash could also make sense as long as it can fulfill the shutter speed. I don't think multiple flashes from the unit could work but it's possible if they are fast enough I guess.

  7. #2377


    I've always loved the overhead images of Kings players that come from the arena in Long Island...freakin cool.
    Anything worth shooting is worth shooting twice. Bullets are cheap. Life is priceless.

  8. #2378


    Ordered a Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye yesterday. Can't wait to get it and take some shots!

  9. #2379

  10. #2380


    Quote Originally Posted by UnholyGoalie View Post
    Ordered a Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye yesterday. Can't wait to get it and take some shots!
    I owned one for a couple years while I shot DX cameras. When I bought my D3 (and my 14mm aspherical), I realized I didn't have much use for it any longer. Sold it for what I'd paid on eBay.

    You'll like it! It's a fun lens! Play a lot with some close-ups, too. I think that lens is every bit as versatile for really creative close-in work as it is for superbig scenes.
    Anything worth shooting is worth shooting twice. Bullets are cheap. Life is priceless.



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