***DSLR/Photography MegaThread***

Ring flash came in. You will have to excuse my mug, as I am the only willing model I have at the moment, and this was during the disaster that was called a hockey game last night:

SamPage_20080108_4820.jpg
 
You SEXY BITCH, you!

Looks like a head-shot for a stint as Saturday Night Live host...
 
Sam,

GREAT stuff!

Explain to me what a "single shot HDR" is, though.

Thanks!

As for the single shot HDR, in this case it was just one shot, taken in RAW, exposed for the wall. I exported it from Lightroom to Photoshop 3 times, one at -2 stops for the highlights (and you can see where it clips where the florescent tubes all of a sudden just go to white), one at the as shot expose, and one pushed 2 stops for the shadows. I layered them all up in Photoshop with the shadows (the one that was pushed to show the dark areas) at the bottom with no mask, the proper exposure in the middle with a white mask (so the whole layer is showing and now you can't see any of the shadow layer), and the highlights on top with a black mask (so now you can't see it and the as shot exposure layer shows through, you can hold down alt while clicking the new layer mask button to get a black mask). Then I selected the highlights layer mask in the layer dialog, and with a white paintbrush painted the area of the tubes to reveal them, then selected the as shot layer mask, and with a black brush painted the dark shadow areas where I wanted to see more detail.
 
Thanks!

As for the single shot HDR, in this case it was just one shot, taken in RAW, exposed for the wall. I exported it from Lightroom to Photoshop 3 times, one at -2 stops for the highlights (and you can see where it clips where the florescent tubes all of a sudden just go to white), one at the as shot expose, and one pushed 2 stops for the shadows. I layered them all up in Photoshop with the shadows (the one that was pushed to show the dark areas) at the bottom with no mask, the proper exposure in the middle with a white mask (so the whole layer is showing and now you can't see any of the shadow layer), and the highlights on top with a black mask (so now you can't see it and the as shot exposure layer shows through, you can hold down alt while clicking the new layer mask button to get a black mask). Then I selected the highlights layer mask in the layer dialog, and with a white paintbrush painted the area of the tubes to reveal them, then selected the as shot layer mask, and with a black brush painted the dark shadow areas where I wanted to see more detail.

HUH? LOL I've obviously got a lot to learn!
 
Everyone is going to be responsible for their own hosting. The Challenge thread (which will be posted here later today) will be the only place to showcase the images for the Challenge.
 
Everyone is going to be responsible for their own hosting. The Challenge thread (which will be posted here later today) will be the only place to showcase the images for the Challenge.

Sounds good. Question, FBJ... Where is a good site to host a photo so that you can thumbnail it to the thread but then people can view the full-size image if they like?

I tried to send you the full-size image of the lake picture via PM but I think the link only works for me because it's my image. Did the link work for you?
 
Yah. It worked.

Any picture-hosting site can be hotlinked to. I use my own web-server, but Flickr accounts can do this if image permissions are set up properly.
 
I will make up a special award for the winners to display in their award thingy over there
















Over here actually





<<------------------<<
 
You might be able to attach a photo directly to the post and it will rendered into a thumbnail and still be viewable as the original.

Edit: Looks like it works.
 
You might be able to attach a photo directly to the post and it will rendered into a thumbnail and still be viewable as the original.

Edit: Looks like it works.


That's exactly what I was thinking, RR! I thought there is a limit to the size of our photo that we upload to the Gallery in LGK, no?

Edit:
Test...

Sweet, it worked. (Now if I could only figure out that damn Multi-Quote button!)
 
Last edited:
First, HOW YOU DO DAT!?!

Second, can you attach more than one thumbnail to each post?
 
First, HOW YOU DO DAT!?!

Second, can you attach more than one thumbnail to each post?


It's actually pretty easy now that I figured it out. Just above the mountain picture icon to attach an image, click the "paperclip" to attach image files by uploading or by hyperlinking.

Yes, you can attach a bunch! I think this could definitely work for those hosting their photos on LGK.

It looks like 1023 X 768 is about the limit that can be uploaded to LGK.

Edit: If my math is right, you can attach about 6 thumbnails with a jpeg thumbnail maxed out at 19.5 KB, you can attach up to 121.6 KB in a post for approximately 6 thumbnails.

It looks like RR has special privledges (obviously) and can upload images to the gallery that are larger than the 350K bytes that all of us are limited to.
 
Last edited:
Hooper Camera called! My extension tubes are in!!!

FINALLY I'm gonna get some LENGTH! ;)

I'll post some pics in a bit.
 
Hooper Camera called! My extension tubes are in!!!

FINALLY I'm gonna get some LENGTH! ;)

I'll post some pics in a bit.

Okay these things are sweet!!

Promaster makes these extension tubes. There's no optics in them whatsoever, so they're not very expensive (about $150). Three extension tubes to the set, a 12mm, a 20mm, and a 36mm. You can use them in any combination. All they do is move the minimum focus point of the lens closer to the camera.

To minimize motion blur, you take the lens you're using and add its focal length to the length of the tubes you have installed to find the minimum shutter speed you want to meter for. For instance, my 50mm with the 36mm tube between the lens and the camera gives me 86mm of lens. Rounding up to the nearest available shutter speed, I'm looking for a minimum of 1/100th of a second. So I set my camera to Shutter Speed Priority and 1/100th of a second and let the f-stop fall where it may. Typically, you'll need a LOT of light in order to get the f-stop to close down for any appreciable depth-of-field. direct sunlight or strong studio lighting is advisable to get the f-stop to around f/8 to f/11.

Here's the test pics I did. Really shallow DOF because of the indoor lighting and open f-stops, but it'll give you an idea of the amount of magnification available. These are all uncropped images.

Here's the 50mm lens by itself:
50mm.jpg


Here's the 50mm + the 12mm tube:
50mm+12mm.jpg


Here's the 50mm + the 20mm tube (not much difference between the 12 and 20mm tubes):
50mm+20mm.jpg


Here's the 50mm + the 36mm tube:
50mm+36mm.jpg


And here's the 50mm lens with all the tubes stacked behind it:
50mm+All.jpg


Cool, eh??

Minimum focus distance decreased to about an inch with all the tubes stacked between the camera and the lens!

Images are MUCH sharper when better lighting is available and the camera is mounted on a tripod. I'm going to try and get outside in a little while to get some better examples.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top