Hi everyone I guess this goes here...
I shoot with a Nikon D40X and here's my flickr page, I have a set just for hockey.
Flickr: MrMach5's Photostream
I should have a D90 by this Feb.
Great shots everyone!!
Welcome!! Those Psycho pics are cooL!
***DSLR/Photography MegaThread***
- Thread starter nocturn
- Start date
Welcome!! Those Psycho pics are cooL!
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MrMach5
Lurker
Got back last night and have been catching up on the thread, nice to see nocturn posting some images again (some very nice ones to boot) and to see Jon and Dan join the fun.
Here are a limited few from my break:
Link to my flickr (something seems to be up with linking back to flicker photo pages, so I can't link each image)
As a side note, I have really been wanting to get a watermark on my images, but I find Lightroom's tool to do this completely lacking. What I found is a pretty cool little plugin for Lightroom called LR2/Mogrify, which can do a bunch of stuff for you on export (like borders and what not), but the most critical is that it can create watermarks sized as a percentage of the image width, so if you export at 4000 pixels wide or 400, it will always be a reasonable size. The only weird thing about installing it is that if you are on a PC, you first need to install ImageMagick, which is sort of like command line Photoshop. It can use psd files, so you can have transparency, as well as any blending mode that Photoshop has, which makes it pretty flexible. So far so good.
Here are a limited few from my break:
Link to my flickr (something seems to be up with linking back to flicker photo pages, so I can't link each image)
As a side note, I have really been wanting to get a watermark on my images, but I find Lightroom's tool to do this completely lacking. What I found is a pretty cool little plugin for Lightroom called LR2/Mogrify, which can do a bunch of stuff for you on export (like borders and what not), but the most critical is that it can create watermarks sized as a percentage of the image width, so if you export at 4000 pixels wide or 400, it will always be a reasonable size. The only weird thing about installing it is that if you are on a PC, you first need to install ImageMagick, which is sort of like command line Photoshop. It can use psd files, so you can have transparency, as well as any blending mode that Photoshop has, which makes it pretty flexible. So far so good.
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spjon25
Lurker
I have a question, how do you add color to those black and white images. I am only using iPhoto on my iMac and was wondering how in that program. I have some I would love to add a spot of color to, but not the entire photo
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spjon25
Lurker
Also, other than protect the lens what else does a filter do. I know the obvious is filter out the light, but why are some more expensive than others. Other than the standard UV lens, what are some other good ones??
Do you mean something like this?
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2lkv9Ztr8I&feature=channel_page]YouTube - Selective Color Tutorial in Photoshop CS3[/ame]
Please note he uses adjustment layers and masks for non destructive editing, not like that chump Donnie
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Good stuff, Sam.
That plugin is for Lightroom 2 only? Crap. Now I'll just have to upgrade...
You're right about Lightroom's watermark tool. I think its highly deficient.
Another nice Lightroom plugin, a flickr uploader, so you can just select the images you want and export them directly to flickr
There are tons and tons of filters, which all do different things. The main categories are:
UV filters - which don't do much on a digital camera. A lot of people use them for lens protection. There is a fair amount of debate on this, as there are a lot of people who swear by them, and then there are the people who say just use a lens hood unless you are going to the beach or a place with flying particulates. The cost of a front element and a really good UV filter are about the same. The difference in price often has to do with how optically good the filter is (how much UV it blocks as apposed to the rest of the spectrum, how much it is going to reflect light back into the camera reducing contrast, etc.)
Polarizing filters (and their cousins for use on AF cameras, circular polarizers) - they only allow light "vibrating" in one direction into the lens, there are a lot of great articles which describe this in depth, but the short of it is is that they are really handy for cutting down on certain specific reflections (like peering into water)
Color filters (which in the digital world have often been replaced with Photoshop) - These can be general things like warming or cooling filters, or correction type filters (correcting for tungsten, florescent, etc.)
"Shape" filters - these give a shape to highlights, like you saw in nocturns images of the child and the Christmas tree
Neutral density filters and graduated neutral density - these cut down on the amount of light coming into the camera. They are handy if you want to open the lens up, but you can't speed the shutter up to compensate. For instance, say you want a shot of a public square, but you don't want all the people. You could get a really heavy neutral density filter, and have a shutter speed of like an hour, which would blur all the people out. Graduated neutral density filters are the same, but they have a gradient from clear on one side to some amount of filter on the other side. These are handy for things like landscapes where the sky might be much brighter than the ground. Many people use HDR techniques instead of GND filters for more flexibility.
I'm sure there are others that I am forgetting that others can chime in on.
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spjon25
Lurker
Valley Fan, karma to you for the help. Thanks, now my head is exploding, oh wait that is from reading 3 Curious George books in a row to my son, and 2 of them were the same book.
Looks like I might have to spring for photoshop elements for my Mac. I don't know if I am ready for Aperture 2 on my iMac
Looks like I might have to spring for photoshop elements for my Mac. I don't know if I am ready for Aperture 2 on my iMac
There is a version for Lightroom v1, but I think because v1 doesn't allow post process plugins, so it is a little more round about to get it working (I haven't used it, but just reading his description)
The really nice thing about Lightroom v2 is the local adjustment brushes and gradients. Very cool and handy (but they can be a bit sluggish at times). I almost never have to bring anything into Photoshop anymore for the little "oh I wish I could burn that area in a little" or whatever local adjustment I want to do.
Yeah, for the 50D you are going to need LR2 because it needs the latest version of Adobe Camera Raw. It is one of the things about Adobe that kind of pisses me off, they force you to upgrade by not releasing the newer ACRs for their older products, so if you buy a new body, you have to buy a new Photoshop or Lightroom.
Dont forget the overpriced IR filters. I have a Hoya #72 that I love. Just remember, shoot in B&W for the best image. Shooting in color using a ir will over saturate the shot in red/pink.
I use a old 58mm UV filter as a hood. I also use Haze 1&2 for hoods on my larger diameter lenses.
New toy alert...
AF17-35mm F/2.8-4 Di LD Aspherical (IF); Tamron USA, Inc.
Reviews are excellent. Cant wait until this crap weather breaks so I can run it through its fast pace....
AF17-35mm F/2.8-4 Di LD Aspherical (IF); Tamron USA, Inc.
Reviews are excellent. Cant wait until this crap weather breaks so I can run it through its fast pace....
For?
I found out today that Rolling Stone in Australia is printing one of my photos in the March issue if all goes well. I guess that since they requested an invoice it's pretty certain. I'm not celebrating till I get the payment though (or at least see it in print). I can write invoices all day.