***DSLR/Photography MegaThread***

DSC_0167b.jpg

Actually, after looking at the image more closely, I've got to say I'd like some more depth of field. Maybe crank the f number up and use an off-camera flash.

I give the image a B.

(don't really mean that stuff above, just had to pick a route to the punchline)
 
Wow, thanks guys. That again is the hand-held reverse-lens macro. It was Monday and it was cold and there were a few bees semi-comatose in the garden. Very docile. So I snatched a blooming camellia and scooped up Mr. Sleepy Bee and went into my garage, which is quickly becoming my studio. Set it up under a 100-watt and as soon as he got warmed up, the bee went right back to grabbing pollen. I only got a few shots before he flew away. Image is full frame, 1/100 sec, ISO 200. I retouched out a dust speck that was on the lens and applied very minimal USM, but other than that, this is right off the SD card.

The hand-held reverse-lens macro technique is a pain in the ass, but I'm getting the hang of it. I have two variations that I have worked out. #1 is an old 35-80 lens literally held backwards against the lensless camera body. Aperture wide open and I taped the lens down at 35mm. As soon as I starting thinking of it as a loupe and not a lens, I became more comfortable with the process. Variation #2 is using two lenses. A 210mm zoom attached to the camera as normal, and the same 35-80 being held backwards against the 210. This is pretty cumbersome to say the least, so I've just resorted to taping the lenses together with painters tape. I do a lot of test firing to get the lighting because I am sans-aperture here, and there are no readings to be had from the camera. So far it is unpredictable what the lighting needs will be for any given shot. Method #1 is not nearly as extreme as #2 (see my previous penny pics as an example), but I am finding that the extreme magnification of #2 is usually out of range of being useful. Too close.

Also, since the DoF is painfully small, and the shutter speeds are not so zippy, I shoot in burst mode. Knowing that 1/4 of a millimeter is the difference between focus and blur, I just brace myself, the camera, the lens... then exhale and hold that shutter down. Like the Soldier of Fortune t-shirt says, "shoot'em all and let Lightroom sort them out later".

Since I've started doing this, I have discovered that Nikon makes reversing adapters for this very purpose and for both configurations I mentioned above. They will be ordered within the next day or so. Along with a set of triggers that ValleyFan hooked us up with.

And probably a few other things...

:)
 
I figured you already knew about the reversing rings, otherwise I'd have mentioned them to you.

You can find them CHEAP on eBay!! You can also find those triggers CHEAP on eBay. I'm sure Sam had as much fun wiring them up as he did using them. Me? I'd probably solder my fingers together.

Extension tubes are good, too. Promaster makes a nice set for Nikon or Canon for about $140. Reversing rings are much cheaper and probably give you better magnification. But you won't have the ability to set f-stops using the ring.
 
Amazing stuff Puckmonkey!!

I just noticed that all of my parade pics were ISO 1600 .. D'oh!!

I have to get some default settings going and I mean right now.
 
Amazing stuff Puckmonkey!!

I just noticed that all of my parade pics were ISO 1600 .. D'oh!!

I have to get some default settings going and I mean right now.

That's surprising, considering how noise-free they are. That little 40D's got a good sensor!
 
I just noticed that all of my parade pics were ISO 1600 .. D'oh!!

Yeah, I really wish Canon would display the ISO in the viewfinder.

Actually, as I type this, it looks like the 450D that was announced today has ISO in viewfinder.
 
Respite from the rain

When I was out shooting signs for the #2 photo challenge (here), I would occasionally have to hide in my car from the rain (I'm shooting a 5D, which is not weather sealed, and I don't have a rain bag for it). This is from my 135mm shooting at f/2.0, at it's minimum focusing distance, shooting the windshield of my car (passenger side, so about 3' focal distance). I was amazed at how narrow the depth of field was.

SamPage_20080127_5301.jpg

A little Lightroom Selenium toning on there.
 
I tried some HDR with lukewarm results. I'll have to keep at it.

Ooo, I think this one has some good HDR potential! If it where up to me, I would brighten the sky on the on the periphery (if you can do so without desaturating your sky), trying to leave the clouds where they are, perhaps lighten the ground a bit, but I would leave the shadow of the statue pretty dark like it is now. That is an excellent start, nice shot!
 
Something that might be interesting, sort of along the lines of the Photo Challenge, might be a Photo editing "conference" where someone can post something they want to work on, like a HDR, everyone can have their crack at it, then we can compare results and see other peoples work flow.

I say this because looking at Rinkrat's photo, it is a really cool image, and it makes me want to play around with HDR again, but I don't think I'm going to have a chance to shoot anything anytime soon, and it might be cool to see how other people do things. It probably would be pretty hard to do practically though because for it to be really useful, you would want to look at people Photoshop file, which mean we would need a server with a LOT of space to share things.
 
Hold it now. Hit it! Here's the Remix.


lone_sailor2.jpg



Being the first one I am just figuring out what I can tweak and what I cant. It still looks a little dull. I think I need to shoot raw and use a tripod to start. :)
Here it is resampled and mixed up a little, still not the real punch I need though. Getting there :)

Then again, the muted colors set an appropriate mood.
 
Something that might be interesting, sort of along the lines of the Photo Challenge, might be a Photo editing "conference" where someone can post something they want to work on, like a HDR, everyone can have their crack at it, then we can compare results and see other peoples work flow.

I say this because looking at Rinkrat's photo, it is a really cool image, and it makes me want to play around with HDR again, but I don't think I'm going to have a chance to shoot anything anytime soon, and it might be cool to see how other people do things. It probably would be pretty hard to do practically though because for it to be really useful, you would want to look at people Photoshop file, which mean we would need a server with a LOT of space to share things.


That's an idea. Each of us could post the three raw image files used to make an HDR and then others could download and tweak and put up the results. As long as we're on the same page as far as programs are concerned (because cross-platform, I think we'd create more questions than we answer), I think we could learn a lot.
 
Hold it now. Hit it! Here's the Remix.


lone_sailor2.jpg



Being the first one I am just figuring out what I can tweak and what I cant. It still looks a little dull. I think I need to shoot raw and use a tripod to start. :)
Here it is resampled and mixed up a little, still not the real punch I need though. Getting there :)

Then again, the muted colors set an appropriate mood.

I think the HDR version of that image would definitely benefit from a couple of things, the first being a tripod. The second would be to start with the exposure set for the shadows of the statue. If you can get that exposed correctly, the sky should be blown out. If you can bracket that first exposure by +/- 2 EV (+2 to get the darkest areas and -2 to get the sky), you should get three images that are far enough apart in range to create a pretty slick HDR.

If you start the bracketing with an exposure for the sky, then you'll not get enough of a change in detail in the sky itself to make a good HDR, and the level of detail in the shadows will be nonexistent.

And yes, you pretty much have to go RAW for the increase in data in each image.
 
belmont_pier.jpg


Belmont Pier - Another HDR

Next time I'l bracket more extremely and use a tripod and RAW. Thanks for all of the help guys. I'm surprised I held it still enough to work at all ;)
=========
EDIT: Second try

belmont_pier_2.jpg
 
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