I finally resorted to getting a swab kit from Samy's the other day. I had more "welds" than a Chevy Nova going on in there, and refused to have my camera out of my hands for 10 days. Worked out pretty well.
***DSLR/Photography MegaThread***
- Thread starter nocturn
- Start date
I finally resorted to getting a swab kit from Samy's the other day. I had more "welds" than a Chevy Nova going on in there, and refused to have my camera out of my hands for 10 days. Worked out pretty well.
Thanks, Poppa!
It depends on the feel I'm trying to achieve with the image, but I have done both. The image above, for example, I used one tone mapped image to pick up the sun rays that I was able to optimize on one, and maintain the overall feel as I composited the second image that was tone mapped for the cityscape (and a third that was done for the interior). Once I post-process that image, it should all blend together nicely. For clean shots (like Glenn's amazing Getty pics, and the cool neon shots that rinkrat is going to shoot tonight
), I definitely make use of the originals.I'm also experimenting with using a modified black channel as a key plate, but until I upgrade my camera rig, my stuff isn't sharp enough to make proper use of it yet. But the results so far have made me a happy camper. I know it's going to do what I want it to do.
You should be a happy camper, they look great. I really like the illustratory look to them. I think Glenn's work extremely well because the subject itself is clean and sharp, yours are great because they have a very moody, drawn look to them. It really makes me want to make some images!
Sloppy borders?
So I was getting a few images printed, one of which was the following:
which I just threw on some sloppy border which I downloaded from somewhere to add to the feel of the image, and it got me thinking, how are sloppy boarders really made? The only two ways I know of are to take a file to your negative holder to jaggy it up and print the entire negative, or work with a paper where you have to brush the emulsion in yourself. As I only had one darkroom class in my life (using Tri-X only at that), how is a sloppy boarder like this one, which you see in a lot of these sloppy boarder packs, even possible? Or is it people are just getting creative with their sloppiness and leaving reality behind?
So I was getting a few images printed, one of which was the following:
which I just threw on some sloppy border which I downloaded from somewhere to add to the feel of the image, and it got me thinking, how are sloppy boarders really made? The only two ways I know of are to take a file to your negative holder to jaggy it up and print the entire negative, or work with a paper where you have to brush the emulsion in yourself. As I only had one darkroom class in my life (using Tri-X only at that), how is a sloppy boarder like this one, which you see in a lot of these sloppy boarder packs, even possible? Or is it people are just getting creative with their sloppiness and leaving reality behind?
HeShootsNScores
the Power in Powerplay
^ Nice!
Hey Mike, now try this...
Instead of ISO 800, drop it down to 100 and give yourself longer exposure times (20-30 second exposures are not unheard of for me). Let the light do the work instead of the sensor. Also, set your medium exposure down at least a full stop.
I think you will be really happy with the different results. The longer exposures let the light "bathe" the scene, and starts to give you an aurora borealis feel. So even though you may have the same exposure values of an ISO 800 shot, what you are capturing is the actual light, and not the digital sensors re-interpretation of it.
I've been doing tons of testing and experimenting with HDR for the last couple of weeks, and it's interesting to watch a controlled and repeatable image like yours develop as new things are discovered.
Instead of ISO 800, drop it down to 100 and give yourself longer exposure times (20-30 second exposures are not unheard of for me). Let the light do the work instead of the sensor. Also, set your medium exposure down at least a full stop.
I think you will be really happy with the different results. The longer exposures let the light "bathe" the scene, and starts to give you an aurora borealis feel. So even though you may have the same exposure values of an ISO 800 shot, what you are capturing is the actual light, and not the digital sensors re-interpretation of it.
I've been doing tons of testing and experimenting with HDR for the last couple of weeks, and it's interesting to watch a controlled and repeatable image like yours develop as new things are discovered.
Gotcha! I purposely set it higher to avoid the long exposure. Why? I'm not really sure. Habit I guess.
This is ****ing rad, let Puckmonkey learn by trial and error and then have him teach me step by step. I'm learning a lot and doing it fast. Mad props to Eddie Spaghetti.
This is ****ing rad, let Puckmonkey learn by trial and error and then have him teach me step by step. I'm learning a lot and doing it fast. Mad props to Eddie Spaghetti.
What's with all the sex toys on the dashboard of that Beetle?
Heheh...
Nice work with the superwide. So many people that use them have a tendency to try and "get everything in" (which so often leads to images with no obvious subject) instead of getting in tight with the subject.
Heheh...
Nice work with the superwide. So many people that use them have a tendency to try and "get everything in" (which so often leads to images with no obvious subject) instead of getting in tight with the subject.
Last edited:
NIIICE!!!
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the importance of really locking down on your tripod during these exposures.
If your camera has a mirror lock-up, use it. And for all of my shots I shoot in self-timer mode so my hands are completely off and unable to move the camera when exposing. That adds another 10 seconds to my already laborious process, but it makes the difference.
Looks like your dialing it in though. What do you think?
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the importance of really locking down on your tripod during these exposures.
If your camera has a mirror lock-up, use it. And for all of my shots I shoot in self-timer mode so my hands are completely off and unable to move the camera when exposing. That adds another 10 seconds to my already laborious process, but it makes the difference.
Looks like your dialing it in though. What do you think?
Now Chirping
- No one is chatting at the moment.